Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Dries Van Noten gets into the details



With a few exceptions, I am rarely compelled to post complete collections from designer shows. I almost missed this one, actually, if it weren't for the detail shots of the pieces.



Details are the essence of men's dressing. Like these white collars (what are they called? a variation on the Chesterfield?), which look like felt and, with the black suit and coat, remind me of pigeons (I don't know why).



Up close, the herringbone pattern goes well with these stripes.



Just look at the matted sheen of this fabric and the way it mixes with the pants, the shoes, and the crocodile pochette. What technology can do to enhance classics.

Like in the first outfit, the white collar suggests the stiff, high collars of military officials, especially given the large military bags. There is the feeling of both discipline and benevolence. Oskar Schindler anyone?



The same goes for this vest, also in herringbone. But the glasses! Surely they give away the tender sensibilities injected into the collection.



The buckle of this belt looks rusted. It's probably not, but I think it's a good suggestion. (Is that a hood I see?)







Beautiful layer of collars.



The way this trench falls makes it look like a robe.











Is that a safety pin that's fastening this suit? Come to think of it, the herringbone vest above is done in a similar way, and so are other pieces.







This is the first time I've seen the bird's-eye weave.



Amazing how it can be mesmerizing for a trench, sweater, and scarf.





And for this blazer, which has something evening, men's club, and country about it.



If the first vest above makes its wearer look like a tailor, this one, with almost invisible front pockets and a loose collar, belongs to a skilled craftsman, apprentice, or even student.















Truly, much is hidden in the details. What is there not to love in this almost imperceptible argyle?





And these monochrome combinations!







(Though I'm not that sure about this ribbon.)












Many, many surprises upon closer inspection.





Sure beats these seemingly flat pictures.

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