Saturday, January 31, 2009

Junya Watanabe turned inside out



For Spring 2009, Watanabe offered gingham coats that, when reversed, became jackets with attached waistcoats.

This fall, he presents the same kind of double utility, again working with his collaborators: Brooks Brothers, Baracuta, Levi's, and Gloverall.



As expected, many have pointed out the economic value of such duality during the recession.



But it appears that the designer has had other things in mind.



No hunting, no fishing, no firearms, without written permission, reads the invitation to his show.



Turned inside out, his coats are suddenly equipped with pockets and hunting patches.



Simple check and pinstripe combinations are transformed by quilted patches and multi-color panels.



As last spring, the shoes provide good accents.



All-weather materials are combined with fall/winter fabric.



Who can imagine that a metallic zip-up can turn into a button-down jacket with nifty shoulder detailing?



Quite amazing how the traditionally thick puffer can be flipped and compressed by a vest.

Notice the quilted patches on the pants. No argument there: they are definitely better than what Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have been bickering about.



Or how a coat with delicious pockets contain a puffer vest.



Watanabe also offers the detachable option with these beautifully structured thin puffer separates. The colors of this piece are just amazing: the red in the right sheen, the orange hems and pockets with curving flaps, and of course, the brown suede (?) detailing. If it weren’t for the weather, I find no reason to hide this masterpiece.



The red and black plaid brings everything together.



Genius, the way quilted patches camouflage the pockets. Again the plaid.



A good thing deserves a double encore.



Even in more somber hues and in pinstripes, the matching of these three textures creates something new for the classics.



Harrington or vest, it’s the color that passes the test.





Literal army camouflage. Utility pockets for another great shade of red.



Any time for bronze puffers, as long as they rough it with this nature palette. And innovative pockets!



Now these have got to be the pièce(s) de résistance of the collection: magnificently quilted puffers with leather (?) pockets. And in chocolate-tinged bronze, no less!

1 comment:

BrandMatchmaker said...

This is such a great example of fashion designers collaborating with each other... in this era that is soooo important. I have many other ideas on how to partner brands together at http://brandmatchmaker.blogspot.com