Tuesday, April 21, 2009
The layers and lapels of Helmut Lang
Tim Blanks is right, the Fall 2009 collection of Helmut Lang does have certain similarities with the new pieces of Rick Owens. In particular, jacket lapels and layering that Michael Colovos (who has designed for the label with Nicole Colovos since 2006) calls seasonless dressing, since the layers can be peeled off for the warmer months.
The two brands seem like binary opposites, with the contrast not only in color, but also in fabric. It helps that the set of one show is in white and gray, and the other in white, gray, and black.
But in spite of the differences, the models from the two shows, when placed in pairs, look like estranged brothers. Not different from those two in the story where one joins the military and the other becomes a rebel.
They are from the same stock.
The crossing of their paths is inevitable.
But while Rick Owens is in the ascendant, the label Helmut Lang has yet to return to its former position in fashion ever since its founding designer left the industry. So no clash is imminent.
More on Rick Owens very soon.