Saturday, May 2, 2009

Thom Browne on GQ Style: Vertigo




Thom Browne: I was inspired by the old Brooks Brothers jackets my grandfather and father used to wear, and by old movies from the 1950s and 1960s. But it was more about capturing the essence of things rather than copying how they were actually put together.



Though this editorial may have nothing to do with the 1950s Alfred Hitchcock movie with the same title, they are set in the same decade.

Tuxedo suits, dinner shirts, silk bow ties: all Thom Browne

'Vertigo', GQ Style 8 Spring-Summer 2009
By Phil Poynter, Styled by David Bradshaw







Could vertigo in this context mean a return or fall back to the past?

Ben wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; pocket square, from a selection, Thom Browne






Perhaps not.

Instead, this editorial seems to attempt a depiction of the "Thom Browne man" (wearing, of course, Thom Browne and Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers) as contrasted against other "types" of men who not only identify with other labels but look more suited for them.

Rob wears cream suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; pocket square, from a selection, Thom Browne






Clockwise from far left: Rob wears cream jacket, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. Brandon wears cream jacket, Neil Barrett; shirt, tie, trousers: all Louis Vuitton. Blake wears cream jacket, shirt, tie, trousers: all Richard James. Ben wears cream jacket (part of suit), shirt, tie, trousers: all Dolce & Gabbana. Sean wears off-white jacket, shirt, tie: all Kilgour. All pocket squares, from a selection, Thom Browne



It depicts the old boys' club, where, even if the Thom Browne man looks relatively unititiated, he is primed to lead the pack.


Blake wears chalkstripe suit, shirt: both Kilgour; tie, Thomas Pink; Grand Carrera calibre 17rs watch, Tag Heuer. Ben wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Ralph Lauren Purple Label; shoes, Barker Black; Grand Carrera calibre 8rs watch, Tag Heuer; pen, Dunhill. Sean wears three-piece pinstripe suit, shirt: both Valentino; tie, Prada; shoes, Kurt Geiger. Rob wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; shoes, Brooks Brothers; Santos Dumont watch, Cartier. Brandon wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Billy Reid. All pocket squares, from a selection, Thom Browne; all socks, Falke









Now this scene is unnerving. Why is there only a single item in his briefcase, and a newspaper of all things?

Cream suit, Black Fleecce by Brooks Brothers; attache case, Thom Browne; Grand Carrera 17rs watch, Tag Heuer




Is there an underlying story in this fashion piece - perhaps a moment of uncertainty before the maturing of an influential identity?



Brandon wears suit, tie, shoes: all Dior Homme. Ben wears suit, shirt, tie: all Dunhill; shoes, Barker Black. Sean wears suit, shirt, tie: all Calvin Klein Collection; shoes, Kurt Geiger. Rob wears suit, shirt, tie, pocket square, from a selection: all Thom Browne. Blake wears jacket, trousers, shirt, tie, shoes: all Emporio Armani


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