Friday, July 3, 2009

The lure of Lanvin

Spectator runway shots don't do Lanvin's Spring 2010 collection justice. Viewing them only, one would miss the little playful details. One would not be able to see the hems, pleats, and creases; decipher the sheen, texture, and transparency of fabrics that could only inspire wholehearted devotion.

Notice, for one, the leftmost garment with its rough edges. The hems look so finely stitched that no machine seems capable of the finish; the fabric so delicate that imperfections in the cut appear inevitable. Of course, it may all be part of the intended luxurious effect.

The boys of Lanvin have grown up. They even have the fake moustaches to show for it. But besides that, the collection maintains the boyishness of the brand, with sleeveless vests, shorts and visors made from tie material, nametag necklaces, delighftully large and round spectacles, studded leather gloves, and leather sandals with woven fabric and harness strings as straps.

The collar of this white shirt looks almost like paper.

With the tees, it dresses down the suits and the vests.

The bags are simple classics done in beautiful leather.

The separate pieces and outfits in this collection give a distinct feel of precociousness uniquely Lanvin.

With its kimono-cut shirts, silky pants, and technically pleated ensembles.

Are these really boxers peeking? You can almost miss the skinny belt. Interesting how the segmentation of this mid-cut boot suggests a low-cut shoe.

These double-flapped collars seem like the most negligible of things, but don't you think one would look naughtier with such deviance?

A superhero trench for silk shorts?

Are there two shirts on the left, or just one? The whole effect, with the strips, zigzags, and yellow and black print makes you look twice. And what about these sandals? At first your vision shuns them, since they look as if rags were meant to fix broken straps, but they look radically different and you are tempted to find out exactly how they would feel on your feet.

The outfits are a seductively mad mix. A second tie used as a scarf. A visor made from tie fabric. A tucked in sheer cardigan matched with blue socks under stringy sandals. A tie used as a belt and not even formally appropriated.

Silk boxers, a deligthful portfolio, and a...plastic toy as pocket square?

Is that a crocheted blue ribbon used as a tie pin? (An elephant!) What is clear here is the Lanvin logo on the lens. Adolescent awkwardness?

This kimono silhouette should be wrong for men, both for the leftmost jacket and the coat, but they look so amiable, and even covetable. Seeing the entire outfits, the sandals suddenly make sense.

Lanvin is about joie de vivre! (As it turns out, also wonderful socks.)

What is this green fabric?

Can it make a handmade kite? Though the model appears like an exhibitionist, who wouldn't gladly show those shorts? The henley and the polo with similar piping; the pleats and cut of the pants: these two look period.

More color!

Is this a cardigan and a jacket, or just one piece? Whichever one, the fabric looks so fine and delicate that either option would be alright. Again, there are two sets of collars.

An even closer look. Sheer on shine!

First you notice the flecked clutch, then the boxers, then the pouch bag, and finally before you scroll down, you see: a belt that comes with 100 belt loops! Of course, the style only follows the leather and fabric sandals.

Even the name pendant is used as a tie pin. Just look at that fabric.

The ones on the shirts too, which look like tiny mosaics.

Sequins and shorts that look like barbed wire.

Oddly, these three look like hip mad scientists.

Most probably it's from the amazement at the alchemy that created their leather jackets.

All soft and buttery, combined with fabric. The drawstrings of the brown jacket may as well have come from Lanvin's shoe line. The color of the bag, the handles, and the zipper tugs. Of course, again the gloves.

Have you seen a better backpack with at least three fabrics?

Is this a leather cardigan? If not, then its fabric has an amazing sheen. If it is, I can only touch to believe.

The return of the bronze Lanvin shoe, but in a different shape.

This brilliant jacket appears so light and thin that it looks as if it were cut straight from paper. Lanvin sandals for rock climbing?

Nothing seems impossible for this collection, which, from afar, looks low-key, but once inspected is sure to surpass all expectations.


-h said...

when i see something like this, i think i need to start paying attention to menswear more, and need to start paying attention to LANVIN's menswear more.
do you think dior homme could steal him back? im curious about that double layered shirt. if it is two shirts or if it's like a "lining" showing through.

-oh and ps. dont know if you saw my comment about the margiela thing.

Miguel Paolo Celestial said...

Kris Van Assche's current Dior Homme collection is a big improvement, and Lucas Ossendrijver continues to be successful at Lanvin, so maybe not.

Yeah, I read your comment to "Where in the world is Martin Margiela?". My review on the MMM show is still fifth in line, so I'll think about Margiela's "stepping back" from the maison's creative process then. But briefly, the usual quirks are still there. Too early to conclude anything.

Anonymous said...

can't wait for you to show us your lanvin outifts and how you'll style them!

Miguel Paolo Celestial said...

Anonymous: Not a bad suggestion. I just hope I can afford them - and soon.