Saturday, July 11, 2009

Miharayasuhiro lands on the Sahara

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry crashed his plane on the Libyan Sahara en route to Saigon from Paris. His life and his book, The Little Prince, are sources of inspiration for Miharayasuhiro's Spring 2010 collection.

The shifting sand dunes, the boulders and rocks, the heat, the mirages, the life of the Bedouin: hence the ruggedness of the pieces, the tunic-like forms, the layers and pockets and splattered paint, and the holes.

Instead of repeating Givenchy, with leggings beneath shorts, Yasuhiro merely places two pairs — one folded higher than the other. Look at how the buttoned placket of the coat proceeds from the collar in a softer fabric, while the lapels hang lazily. Notice also the very supple leather of his mid-cut boots, which extend upward like loose socks. Miharayasuhiro is subtle in his genius.

The show depicts both the western traveller and the accustomed desert walker. This outfit marries both, with the combination of leather jacket, tunic, and shorts.

Though these tangled fabric ropes may remind one of Burberry Prorsum's shirt harnesses, these vagabond trimmings look more like the clothing remains of someone who got lost in the desert.

Is this a vest with a scarf as a collar? The tassels look like something from a coconut tree. Not only do we see holes on the tee, I think we are also seeing doubles, and a trace of the previous shirt's tatters. The fabric of the pants are perfect for the climate: they look soft, airy, and solid.

So I spoke too early. Here are the show's leggings. And satin-y shorts. I think this is the first time I've seen cargo shorts in such a fabric, and with a huge drawstring ribbon! The magic about it is that this outfit works: from the cardigan with the color of sandy stone, the shirt and necklace, to the leggings, the boots, and the shorts. Would love though to see the details of the necklace by Husam El Odeh, whom Yasuhiro has worked with before.

Here is the safari shirt but rendered in something other than linen, and with pockets that make it technically more a Cuban. I like the detail of the double collar, which somehow reminds me of origami. This time the string of the pants is barely there — in contrast with the pair's volume. Just right that they bunch of in creases on the sides and taper. The sandals are intriguing: studs or more buckle holes? Notice finally that the bracelets echo the collection's leitmotif of strings and tatters.

This shirt-wrap comes as another feat of engineered tailoring. Here are the cargo shorts in pants form. Beautiful how the shirt-robe is a little sheer and hangs like a cape. Is that a big, woven, flower belt?

While the Little Prince was travelling around space, visiting other planets, he left a rose back at home. This beaded sweater blushes with this allusion. Less obvious is the mixing of fabrics in the cargo pants.

Not only the red of the rose enflames this beaded shirt — also the redness of the desert.

This belted vest, with its four asymetrical pocket flaps, is worthy of the Bedouin.

Pieces in the collection are not only loose, but also sartorially precise. This outfit becomes cohesive because of the hems of the vest and the jacket, and the collar of the buttoned tee. The scarf is a good touch.

Yasuhiro works a tuxedo jacket into the collection, pairing it with a sheer, front-vented tee and drawstring pants.

I love how this casual vest pulls this look together. Looking closer, it seems to be part of the shirt.

These are not your usual marbled shorts. I like how the color effect makes them appear like crumpled foil. Or is it the opposite? (The footwear, as with all the outfits, is pitch perfect.)

The simplest of things leave deep impressions, such as this shirt-vest hybrid. Or the fastening of this jacket, which has a very thin shawl collar.

Here the shirt-vest hybrid reverses focus (more vest than shirt). I really need espadrilles this time of my life.

This shirt-scarf is just as magnificent as the sand formations.

Want to look closer at these shoes.

Can't seem to figure out how many layers there are. Four? Three? What's harder to determine is the number of pieces.

I love how the paint splatters are very restrained. Like the jewelry. I want to see how this cardigan looks buttoned. I expect a surprise.

The tatters work well with this tux jacket.

They look good enough for evening when rendered in navy. Come to think of it, all these outifts look like variations on the costume of the Little Prince. The necklace and sandals are killing me.

What did I tell you?

Though the sheer shirt and glasses add some rock into the look.

This scarf looks like the rose belt above.

Detailing conjures a skinny tie mirage. What a beautiful coat.

The sheerness of this shirt is very subtle. If only we can also see the bags in detail.

The boots almost look like Uggs, but without the stigma. This "coat" has lapels that reach the knee.

I can't get enough of these shorts. Why does it look as if this billowing outer piece is tied around the waist? Is it separate from the vest? There also appears to be some brocade detailing on the shirt. Beautiful shoes.

Welcome the macabre Little Prince, with his cutaway and shorts (skirt?), leggings, and star-speckled shirt.

Instead of purple robes, this prince wears a delightful leather jacket with huge zippers and amazing hem detailing. He wears his crown on his feet.


REDD said...

~mismatched yet coordinated.. earth colors and dessert mood dominates the collection. iv been eyeing on those sandals.. time to let feet breath a little.. and i give credits for the shirt-vest, awesome. im not a fan of long-length-shirts but Miharayasushiro gave me a perfect excuse. nice review as always pao, love the desert background on the pics, u made it so effortless to imagine the resemblance.

-h said...

amazing. and i love how you put it with the desert pictures.