Saturday, October 3, 2009

Feels like rain for Thom Browne in Spring

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Come to think of it, hats, trenches, hoodies, jackets in nylon and what looks like neoprene, and also curtain capes are what dominate Thom Browne's Spring 2010 collection. Of course the fabrics are lighter and may be more apt for summer showers (pun intended), but there are still a lot of spring items to get your hands on.

Indeed, when it comes to Cole Mohr's coat above, one button at the back makes all the difference — not forgetting of course the refreshing silhouette contrived by the puffed out sleeves and the lapels that dive down like the blades of scissors.

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From Fall 2009's Fair Isle prints, Thom Browne returns to pajama patterns (the pants are in the same proportion) or boy's bedroom sheets. The metallic fishing hat hints at early adolescence.

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So the question is, would you rather wear the attenuated hoodie, which looks more like a nun's wimple, or would you wear the short short short male skort? With the cardi, of course.

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What a jacket. The construction still confounds me: tight-fighting at the shoulders and upper back, with a placket quite similar to Jil Sander's, but with sleeves that are quite loose — from the shoulders down.

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The scaly, glimmery effect of these large sequinned shirt is similar to Philippine capiz — made of shell. Nevermind the trunks, the gossamer pants, and the tank-cardigan. This ensemble is the strangest that walked down the aisle — one would half expect a scene.

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Is this jacket made of linen? I love its sheen. The buttons, the tag on the front pocket, and the way the hood retains the shape of the fishing hats.

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Indeed a lesson in cuffs and proportion. Who would have thought of cuffing pants as wide as coats? And remembering to balance both out with a high waist, a small vest almost like those for coattails, a skinny tie, and shirt collars as small as fangs?

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As revealed in a previous interview with the designer, Thom Browne considers gray and pink pinstripes as his most formal. Here he renders it in summer fabrics and wears them out with stitches. Who says formal is only for fall?

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These sleeves really have me going, and the buttons.

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You'd think this is just more of the usual creams and grays, but the artful pleats on these sweatpants make them worthy to be paired with this cream coat. And the back buttons!

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A drop-crotch transparent nylon overall suit with a wimple? Certainly not serious, but just imagine how your wardrobe will look like seen through such fabric.

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The hat becomes a helmet in this picture, and the jacket that of a lieutenant's. Thom Browne seems to always return to uniforms, but whether this reminds you of sailors or the navy, the cut, the piping, and the buttons make the piece desirable for stylish civilians.

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The most powerful detail is only seen from the side.

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Swordfish and palm trees! Whether they remind you of Gauguin or Hemingway, Browne adds his own touch with the side buttoned-vents, which makes this cardigan more interesting than your usual Christmas knit.

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With the thick piping, the double pockets almost look like windows. The plaid is simple and endearing. Now the pants, ahh, here are those proportions again.

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As I've said earlier, this sailor-collared double breasted jacket has much potential. Nevermind the halter shirt. The tailored shorts remind one of what Thom Browne has originally been known for.

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The contrast stitching.

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Again the white thread. Also love the plaid and the loose but tailored shorts. But most of all, I am smitten by the proportions of the jacket — especially with the boyishly preppy styling.

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Lots of things here: the cuffed pants turned into shorts, which is more plausible; the multiplicity of belts; and the artificial vest layering of the sleeveless hoodie.

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The fit of the nylon (?) blazer is perfect. Too bad I cannot say the same for the mini-skorts. But I am suddenly intrigued how this would look on gorgeous, long-legged girls. (Before I forget, what is preppy without the club collar?)

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I've just noticed now, what I love most about this outfit — more than the shorts-over-pants-effect and the bisecting piping — is the way a pocket square can mimic the piping.

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Interesting how the jacket is merely lengthened to become a coat.

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So we now arrive with this. I've always been excited with mixing and matching patterns — especially polka dots with stripes. But this comes as a paradigm shift, even if I am used to layering with sheer fabrics; seeing through them is something very different.

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A polka dot vest peeking through!

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It would be very bold to match a polka dot jacket with polka dot trousers, even with dots of different sizes — and even if you wear another coat over the jacket that matches the pants. As expected, I am thinking of matching the jacket with striped slacks. Maybe a mix of whites and grays.

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After looking twice at the model and realizing that he isn't Robert Redford, I notice the stitches on his...what exactly is that? A sweater? A vest with polka dots that look like buttons? Beautiful seersucker jacket with the same stitches. And the shorts. Everything except maybe the flipflops.

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Pacman, lampshade, Darth Vader. Now I am suddenly reminded of a fire hydrant.

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Nice cardigan...

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Kindergarten lesson about germs. (Or pin-the-bacteria.)

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Great vest, but it requires high-waisted pants, or at the very least a shirt.

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Scallop slits.

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Nobody can wear yellow like Luke Worrall. Amazing how such a material can have pleats and folds.

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The bow tie almost makes me forget about the skorts. Can you imagine waiters all wearing such a uniform (without the hats, of course)?

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This tux reminds me of an earlier collection presented in a skating rink — except for the flaring pants.

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Very interested in the material of this jacket, which appears shimmery from afar but looks like linen up close.

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Fish trader with a knack for marine-worthy sheer outergear.

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What a beautiful jacket, with its subtle plaid fabric and black piping. Does the color of the hat ring a bell?

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"I am your father." Though the sequins used remind me more of mother-of-pearl.

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The beloved son of menswear.


Helenildo Amaral said...

Hi from Brazil, i like so much your blog! it´s a inspiration for me.

great post about Thom Brown´s collection.

Miguel Paolo Celestial said...

Thanks! Am glad that you like it.

Martini said...

I very much appreciate Thom Brown's attempt make us reframe our concept of masculinity. thanks for sharing these pictures.

james p said...

great posts! check out imeanwhat hilarious as well!