Thursday, April 30, 2009

Military floral

The sun returned yesterday! But the summer still seems lost and disoriented. The rains usually begin in June, not April. Now I feel silly complaining from the heat. Today it's back to gloomy.

If the military had its equivalent for floral, it would have to be paisley, or insect patterns, like what Liberty has recently popularized.

Summer come back! I was only kidding...

Shirt, Diesel; thrifted tie, San Dino; thrifted jeans, Izzue; laceups, Marlboro Classics; ribbon belt (barely seen), thrifted

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?

Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.

Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.

Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?

Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.

Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Black magic

I think I may need help from the occult arts to get over this one: my article deadlines come crashing (come to think of it, I haven't posted an article for quite some time now) and here I am still pondering whether I may still have time to finish my long overdue Thom Browne post. (Am already half done.)

Very soon, and shortly! Will need to hem and put a cuff to my habits of procrastination. In the the meantime, here's what I wore today.

Micro-checkered shirt, Ben Sherman; micro-houndstooth pants, Custom Made; thrifted leather elfin slip-ons, Camper; skinny leather belt, APC; plastic necklace, Qeelin; fingerless gloves; Debenhams

Photo by Patricia Suzara

Monday, April 27, 2009

Morning news sold out

No matter how noisy, crowded, and grimy, the city will always be dear to me. It is where all lines converge, where parallels intersect. Day in and day out, in between the columns found in national papers lie the lives of everyone around - all of them unavoidably affected, if not incriminated.

Sure, I am not one to turn down one or a few weeks of rest out in the provinces - to the mountains or to the beaches - but I don't know how long I can last so far from the bustle of the metropolis.

Thrifted shirt, Emporio Armani; pants, Gas; scarf, vintage; newsboy cap, Zara; semi-leather shoes, Giordano Concepts; suspenders, SM Department Store

Photos by Patricia Suzara

Prada Spring 2009 lookbook

For the past two seasons, I've had Prada lookbooks as my laptop screensaver. Each one has been created as digital artwork to both expand the experience of a collection and to offer a glimpse into its inspiration, and even their own creative deconstruction.

Download the current lookbook here.
View the previous Prada lookbooks: Fall 2008 lookbook
, Spring 2008 lookbook, Fall 2007 lookbook.

Since the interpretation is more aloof than literal, poetic than journalistic, concerns about styling, wearability, and sellability are set aside. The lookbooks provide suggestions, dream sequences.

They entice from another aesthetic level.

They touch into emotions.

Connect separate events in memory, in such a way as to provide the background of associations for the clothes.

The images are playful and simple.

They are optical illusions designed for keener sight.

They are half-finished sketches.

They tease about what's to come.

Once a customer decides to give in to desire.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Complementary polka dots

I had already decided the night before that this Saturday would be another day for shorts. (I had cut down another pair of jeans the night before.) My mind made up, I went out of the shower to discover the sky dark and glowering. Hence the sweater.

Though the shorts came from a pair of baggy pants, I think the stiff and untailored effect goes well with a fit shirt. The tie as belt was likewise an afterthought - a way to make another rainy day a little bit happier.

Polka dot shirt, Topman; polka dot tie and tote, thrifted; jeans now denim shorts, Guess; sweater, Sisley; leather sneakers, Converse; gold watch, Omega Seamaster

The Sartorialist: On the Street......Le Marais, Paris

Black and blue shoes (in leather and suede)! My little heart is bruised...

The commenters are of course right; it's really everything about the picture: from head to toe, foreground to background, even the air...

Friday, April 24, 2009

White flood pants

You can say it's the worst timing to wear white pants when its raining, but each morning starts so bright and sunny that I always wake up hoping it would stay like that - no rain, but at the same time not too warm.

White is just so irresistible to wear during summer - even if the season has lately been unreliable - that one just can't have enough of the color.

Tee, Izzue; penny loafers, Bass Weejuns; white jeans, eco-friendly half-wool scarf, and green suede messenger: all thrifted

Just published this while I'm still building my next post on the American menswear designer who recently popularized ankle exposure, and, according to news last month, may have to look for an investor to prevent his business from sinking underwater.

Top photo by Patricia Suzara

Thursday, April 23, 2009

This is not about tying scarves...

But about volume, houndstooth and stripe combinations, and the American colors.

It's about my new Tretorn by Acne nylon sneakers.

Or the lady in pink behind me who reminds everybody that this is just a shoot and scarves and beanies belong back to the office where it's perpetually airconditioned.

Once again- and with feeling - maybe this is merely about using peelable accessories for the tropical climate, where it's really quite cumbersome to keep on wearing and removing jackets and sweaters in and out of the workplace.

Thrifted shirt, Daks; jeans, Levi's; skinny leather belt, APC; sneakers, Tretorn by Acne; scarf from Kalinga Apayao province, produced by locals; beanie, thrifted

Photos by Patricia Suzara

AnOther Man: Untitled editorial in red

The idea of wearing bandages as tops isn't knew. Pieces by Raf Simons in this shoot may have in fact been influenced by old artisanal articles by Martin Margiela. Coincidentally, new clothes by the Belgian designer appear alongside the "new" bandage tops by Simons. I take it as homage.

Rubber bandage (worn as top), Expectations
Untitled editorial from AnOther Man 7, Autumn/Winter 2008
Photography by Mark Segal, Styling by Alister Mackie

I think it's no coincidence that the archive-inspired bandage tops appear in the same editorial as these vintage cropped shirts by Vivienne Westwood, which are very 80s. The reference, of course, is Britain during that era and the Sex Pistol's Johnny Rotten.

Patterned jacket and tartan trousers, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus; lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; patent leather high tops by Reebok by Juun J

How else can Portobello and Rick Owens mix?

Military cap and reversible tartan jacket, Portobello market; long sleeve fine jersey t-shirts, Rick Owens; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto

Rubber bodysuit, Expectations; padlock pendant necklace and bracelet, TEM; Dead End pendant necklace, Atelier 11; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto; leather belt, Julius

Even the check shirts are cropped. Red tartans look good with other patterns in black. Again, as in a past editorial I posted, this outfit will not be as effective if the model weren't blond.

Three button fitted jacket and silk pocket square, Yves Saint Laurent; checked shirt, Angels; trousers, Gucci

And as precocious looking.

Oversized mohair tank top and jersey shorts, Rick Owens; rubber collar, Expectations

With that sensual defiance in his eyes.

Leather biker jacket archive, Jitrois; checked shirt, Diesel; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; Dead End pin, Atelier 11; padlock chain and safety pin necklaces, TEM

And yes! Red pants. I don't know if I will dare, but just look at these pairs!

Brick print jacket, Maison Martin Margiels; bandage top and collar, Raf Simons; bullet pendant necklace, TEM; trousers, Prada

Knotted rubber waistcoat, Maison Martin Margiela; trousers, Jil Sander; silver ring, Atelier 11

Nothing really as blatant as that color. You will need all the patterns at hand, and especially the color black, to tame it.

Lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; trousers, Filippa K; patterened silk scarves, Gucci; bandanas, Rokit

Tartan tuxedo jacket, Vivienne Westwood Man; tartan shirt, Wasteland; padlock chain, TEM; marbled trousers, Jil Sander

And this, this is just bloody fabulous.

Bandage top and saftey pin brooch, Raf Simons