Thursday, January 21, 2010

Gianfranco Ferré takes it fur-ther

Gianfranco Ferre 01


Who can miss these fur capes that look like enlarged stoles, lengthening under jackets? (Maybe they are stoles.) Besides the fact that one does not expect them from Gianfranco Ferré, many would entirely not expect them on men.

Who can deny what they do — besides of course to provide warmth — for the silhouette, and for the swagger of the man who wears them? In this pair, the fit of the trousers and the biker boots add to the enigma.


Gianfranco Ferre 02


What comes to mind is The Polar Express (I didn't watch it. It just sounds right.), The Chronicles of Narnia, and some dated Russian spy film. The sleek fur vest is the worthy male version of the common hairy fur vest for women. Notice how the sash-like strip on the trench looks like a cummerbund.


Gianfranco Ferre 03


Though the sleeveless fur number on the left is reminiscent of Gareth Pugh, the use of the cummerbund is not. Why are there diamonds on the sleeves? A kind of puffer? Leather and fur belong together.


Gianfranco Ferre 04


The use of gray on gray reminds me of Thom Browne, but again, it is the stole that makes the difference.


Gianfranco Ferre 05


From stole and vest to sweater and muffler.


Gianfranco Ferre 06


With a belt or under a cummerbund. Or maybe fastened as a wrap.


Gianfranco Ferre 07


Love the plaid tie, even if I'm not as excited about the grizzly lining. The guy on the right could be coming from a ski chalet. Notice that the leather vest is tightened by a drawstring.


Gianfranco Ferre 08


The pelt in colors for evening wear.


Gianfranco Ferre 09


A furless silhouette.


Gianfranco Ferre 10


Yes, plaid-on-plaid is not new, but doesn't this interpretation look spiffy?

Gianfranco Ferre 11


So the cut reminds you of other designers, but hey, everybody's gotta sell.


Gianfranco Ferre 12


Even this fur sweater underneath recalls Miuccia's mohair, but did she put a belt over it?

2 comments:

markthatdesign said...

cool review! i am seeing a lot belts worn over jackets of late...is that the current trend?

-h said...

I will never get behind the look of men with belted in waists. Though it does look good in the fur cummerbund version, but i dont consider that a cinched in the waist look.

That black military jacket is gorgeous. And now that I'm looking the boots are very amazing too.