Friday, March 26, 2010

Asia Wysoczynska's pliant samurai

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The first time I heard of Asia Wysoczynska* was when she herself sent me a message on Facebook, saying she came across the blog. If it weren't for that, I think it would have taken me a little longer to stumble upon her collections.

Her silk organza pieces for men last Spring 2010, part of the "Androgyny Tighten Up" collection", piqued my interest. For Fall 2010, entitled "HEorSHE", Asia continues her androgynous ethic, but this time extending it to enigma of the the samurai.

I love how this coat — apart from its geometric construction — simulates the obi.

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Inspired by the rich yet modest world of Samura, the 'HEroSHE' collection reveals fascination for the double nature of things. The samurai’s outfit — from the simplest kimono and kataginu or hakama, to the most elaborate ceremonial armour. Simple soldier, the emperor, lady samurai ... This is my voyage through time, space and gender. Crossing and bending boundaries.**

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The men's skirts are floppy enough with their creases, but maintain structure to still keep them masculine.

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The front apron helps to achieve this. The shape of the v-neck goes well without the skirt.

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Notice that there are two sets of peaks here: one on the shoulders, and the other other near pant pockets that make the trousers look like jodhpurs.

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I like the women's "skirt" more than the men's.

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They are actually trouser, which I think it are androgynous enough for both sexes.

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The play with cut and the qualities of the fabrics aim to express the true nature of things, which is often different from the image they may convey looking at them for the first time. Delicate silk appearing like silver armor, layers giving an impression of being stiff while moving gently with every wearer’s step.

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It is wonderful how the appearance and perception of the pieces change with movement. Here, various cultural references are mixed with the Japanese.

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Addressed to both women and men, the collection provides a range of high quality items.

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As dramatic as a theatrical stage.

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Here I am. The Warrior. HEroSHE. Armour stained with blood. Neon-like mark of the inside. Fragile flesh ... Blackness of being ... Smooth, sharp moves. Cut and blood. Again. Pain of awareness. Awareness of destiny.

*Asia Wysoczynska established her label in 2008 in Warsaw, Poland. Before graduating with honours from the International School of Costume and Fashion Design in 2010, she also studied Psychology of Creativity and Art at Jagiellonian University, Cracow, which gave her deeper look on fashion design.

** Italicized text quoted from the designer's press release



JP said...

love all her pieces specially the jodhpurs, kilts and the square pants...i'd totally rock those...thanks for the post.

Miguel Paolo Celestial said...

hi JP. glad to hear from you. i myself can't wait to try out the kilts.