Saturday, January 30, 2010

Bottega Veneta's spring fever

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Before anything, isn't it strange that I'm fretting about the tardiness of my Spring 2010 reviews when it isn't spring yet, not all the labels have their new stuff in stores, and the Fall 2010 reviews I am also scrambling to accomplish won't see rack space until three seasons after? Ok, enough. On to the review...

As promised, here is a "flashback" of the Spring collection, which I find much more stimulating than the Fall 2010 offering. Just look at the first outfit. What's not to like about the tiny teeth marks of the pennyloafers, the gartered hem of the pants, the luxe and lightweight baseball jacket, the belt, and the carryall?

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Here is the tie-dyed effect carried over from one season to another. Better used in spring. Would you trust such a huge piece of woven luggage to airport conveyor belts?

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By the sheen of the fabrics, one can just imagine how soft they feel on the skin.

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The totes look thin and upright enough to carry documents uncreased.

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Psychedelic scarves, bags with Frankenstein stitches, and fantastic hair by the one and only Guido Palau.

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Bags and shoes are not the only ones aflame in this collection. Didn't expect this type of a bracelet, but it jives with the mood and outfit.

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The green I also like. Notice that they have scarves in all sorts of fabrics.

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So he just got out of bed, wearing the same hair and clothes, but at least he has a turquoise croc bag to distract your attention.

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Can't get enough of this green, the red loafers. The leather and metal cuff is one to covet.

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And here come the prints. Floral silhouettes with pencil-fine detailing. Even the zippers go well with the blazer and drawstring pants.

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Pajama patterns. Look closely: leaf or bird? Monochrome: even with eye color? (Refer back to the turquoise bag.)

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I must say I love the styling of this show — nothing serious, but always spot on. Is that a peaked roundneck?

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Matching neon trunks. Fine accessories. Every piece of clothing so soft and lightweight that — when packed for a swim — there's lots of space left in the equally soft woven bags.

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Zippered plum trunk at just about the right length. Summer is just around the corner!

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Shorts with fine (embroidered?) and Liberty-esque butterflies. Though the necklace is subtler. I like the bag, though for a different use and setting.

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First detail shot of the skinny belt with rivets.

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The color of Spring 2010. Or was it Fall 2009? Plum and the other shades of violet have been up and about for quite a while. That's why I said give Fall 2010 a rest!

This of course is not to take away anything from this excellent DB with slight shoulder peaks.

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I wonder which color Tomas Maier named "fever red". This one just has a mild temperature.

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Ah, I suppose this next one stirs the thermometer.

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No, the bag is not sick with spots. It's lust-worthy ostrich.

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I prefer red.

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Now plum takes over your socks.

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Butterflies in tow. Great shirt pattern combination. Is the collar in gingham?

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Probably. The tie reminds me of Dries Van Noten's ikat.

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The fabric bag too. The dye-designed jacket looks as light as a windbreaker.

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When red and plum join forces, you get a berry smoothie.

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This is the type of shoe-sandal I'd wear every day for comfort. No matter if my friends call them grandad footwear.

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Black and plum is glum. Though the bag is more than enough to make anyone happy.

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Got to admit a baseball jacket looks good in the color.

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The "peak" of the previous roundneck is repeated to accentuate the Vs. I think I prefer Dries Van Noten's ethnic prints over this digitalization.

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A silk blouson soft as tissue. (You get my drift.)

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The belt looks better in red. Worn askew just like the jagged collar.

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Was this model shot? He looks as if he were bleeding. I want to see this red print in shorts. Or why not trunks?

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Wouldn't it be cool if the print etchings glowed in the dark? Though of course, that would be another brand.

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This combo is impeccable: midnight blue tuxedo jacket, jeans, checks, and a pocket square that looks like a fire tree flower.

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This time, violet is too much, too plain for the jacket.

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Does better as an accent.

Friday, January 29, 2010

The eerie accessories of Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons

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"Giant flew inland. He went on for a long time, and finally he was very tired, so he dropped down on the sea the little round stone which his father had given to him. It became a large rock way out at sea. Giant rested on it and refreshed himself, and took off the raven skin.

At that time there was always darkness. There was no daylight then.

The whole world was still covered with darkness. When the sky was clear, the people would have a little light from the stars; and when clouds were in the sky, it was very dark all over the land. The people were distressed by this. Then Giant thought that it would be hard for him to obtain his food if it were always dark. He remembered that there was light in heaven, whence he had come. Then he made up his mind to bring down light to our world."

- Tsimshian legend

This Promethan myth is the first thing you see once you skim the online page of Black Sheep and Prodigal Son.

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Left: Yiksa, leather and vintage ivory breast plate, limited to 7 pieces
Right: Hahnoma or White Man's Fly, 18k gold cast from Brooklyn honeycomb on leather cord, limited to 3 pieces

Their pieces are fantastic. Made of ivory, ebony, gold, horsehair, and leather, their lines get to the heart of materials.

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Nascha, weathered lamb and vintage ivory bib, limited to 7 pieces; Koko, wrapped rawhide bangle

The mood brought by the styling and setting are apt for the jewelry, which could have been made by old tribes.

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Or then again, by cults.

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Left: Chogan, leahter and vintage ebony harness, limited to 7 pieces
Right: Yiksa, leather and vintage ivory breast plate, limited to 7 pieces; O'ha, braided American horsehair and leather bangle

The models could stand in for the children of the Blair Witch.

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Not that it's a bad thing.

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Leather can also be made from the skin of intelligent mammals, who have high carbon footprints.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

El Bosquejo's midwest stalker

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This is one instance I am not queasy about having stalker — a style stalker that is. El Bosquejo is now featured on the We Are Stalking page of Corridor40, the blog of Saint Louis Fashion Week.

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Just looking at Google Analytics, you won't really believe that people are reading your blog thousands of miles away. Until they email you or write something about you.

Speaking of which, I'd like to tell you about something exciting in the works, involving an Italian street label, an ad campaign, and an online contest. Watch this page.

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The page of Saint Louis Fashion Week.

Thanks to Corridor40, I stumbled upon Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons, an accessory maker that creates eerie and unsettling jewelry. More on my next post.

Thanks again to Jennifer from Corridor40!

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Bottega Veneta's boots and bolos

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Yes, for me accessories are the highlights of Bottega Veneta's Fall 2010 collection. And boots have also left deep impressions throughout many of the shows.

These two above are fairly simple, but they illustrate how many pairs of trousers were slimmed down for effect.

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These thick-soled lace-ups are then a clear sign of the era the label draws inspiration, or at least imagery, from. (The croc skin on the right is worthy of the brand.)

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Weight is what the boots give the outfits, with their soft, creased, and crumpled fabrics. Seeing the whole pictures, the buckled shin straps make more sense — even if they look more like thick wrist bands. (The bags look familiar, right?)

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Only a few things that I noticed from show, and these flecked sweaters are part of the list.

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Yes, the jeans, and the blazers that are marginally formal and understated enough to avoid being sleek — perfect for the denim-clad and slicked-back romantic/rebel.

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Honestly, these are the outfits that I enjoyed the most. Because of the fedoras, which perfectly complement the oval-buckled skinny belts, the thick-soled laceups, and the loose jeans. Oh and the trunks!

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Like the bags above, the shirt on the right looks familiar, and I've noticed this in other collections: something is always carried over from the previous season. In this case the print. The shirt on the left looks new, even if it resembles the M on Maison Martin Margiela's shirts and tees from a past collection.

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Spring 2010's DBs have shed their pagoda shoulders for Fall. The colors are also familiar.

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Though I'm not complaining since the jackets are indeed distinct, unlike the satin trousers on the right, which resemble those from Dolce & Gabbana and maybe even Prada.

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These evening jackets may have been meant to be the collection's masterpieces, with their oil paint splotches. (Cummerbunds again!)

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But this only brings me to my point that Fall 2010 is quite disappointing for Bottega Veneta. That is why I am posting next their Spring 2010 collection, which I missed and I am partial for.

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