I must admit, Drei Soriano's show was a surprise and a delight during this week's menswear night.
Why? For the simple reason that his collection was cohesive: he had an idea that he sketched out into a narrative of clothes, in such a way that you can't help sense a story behind the show.
The shoulder rip (detachable sleeves?) on this jacket, for example, is nothing new. So are the stripes and the diagonal zippers. Same goes for the legging-like trousers and boots. But together, together, they present the image of a biker left wandering the city, with a specific purpose.
Of course, looking closely, one can say a lot of things about the craftsmanship. But the thing is, once a designer has shown that he can execute a concept, I think experience, a little bit of success, and shrewd sourcing can supply what's missing.
Reminds me of the uber-masculine collections of Calvin Klein.
I like the combination of sheer fabrics and leather. One can almost miss the colored cuff of the trousers. Details! Drei Soriano knows that details are the essence of menswear.
The CK vibe here is more direct, down to the color. What's new? The zippers that appear to continue from the shirts to the crotch. Aha! (The footwear too is nice.)
And then I spy a zipper at a shirt cuff!
A little bit of Ann Demeulemeester.
Scarf tassels, logo buckle belts. The concept of Iron Man fingerless gloves is interesting, though maybe with just a little more fit.
Collars and creases.
See how important silhouette is?
More (beard) tassels.
A concept in ten pieces: sometimes that is all it takes. Absolutely no need for 30 overstretched outfits.
Additional photos by Paul Cortes and Bruce Casanova